THE TOWN OF CORFU MONUMENTS - MUSEUMS

   The town of Corfu is one of the most beautiful towns in Greece. The 17th and 18th C. apartment buildings, the paved »kantounia» (narrow roads), the monuments and the historical buildings, the belfries that reach up to the sky, the two Fortresses and Spianada all blend together to compose a charming picture and which enchant every visitor to the island. The old town, restricted between its two Venetian castles and its walls, has a quaint character and atmosphere that we rarely see in other Greek towns.

  The signs of its former greatness and cultural effects from its Western conquerors can be seen everywhere, blending together with Greek style and temperament. In spite of the destruction inflicted by the recent world wars and by the passing of time, Corfu has retained its character almost unchanged. Built in a region blessed by Nature, it reminds us tremendously of its Venetian architectural style which gives it its singular color Inside the graphical old town one can see the uphill with their stone steps, the »skalinares» or stepped streets (in accordance with the local dialect), the charming arcades of the houses -the famous »volta»- the buildings marked by the patina of time, harmonious Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches and charming squares.

   Spianada is the heart of the town. This square extends from the first houses to the Old Fortress and reflects the history of Corfu. The Spianada or Esplanade was formed during the Venetian period as one more fortification work aimed at giving the defenders of the Fortress an open field of action in order to defend the town. During the French occupation period Spianada was transformed into the park we see today.

   Strolling through the square with its dense gardens and along the shaded pathways, we can see at a glance three facets of the island’s historical periods: The Palace of Agion Michael and Georgiou (St Michael and St. George)- a pure British Neo-classical building; the Old Fortress dating back to the Venetian period; and Liston’s Volta – the small Paris of Corfu.

   Spianada is divided into two by Dousmani Street – Pano and Kato Plateias (Upper and Lower Squares). A little train travels all along its length during the summer months, a perfect way in which to get that first look at the town. We also have here the traditional carriages ready to show visitors Corfu’s other face, as well as the taxi stand for those in a hurry.

   Spianada is the scene for Corfu’s most important social and festival events. The phantasmagoric Resurrection every Easter, the litanies of the Saint, the official parades and the open-air concerts by the philharmonic bands all take place here, while at Carnival time the pretty majorettes and the masquerading persons are all scattered in among the tall trees.

   All around the square stand Venetian, French, British and Greek buildings -all blending together harmoniously- impressive and grand under the Corfiot light. On the south side of Spianada is a building of which only its facade remains. This was the old Grimani Barracks which housed the lonian Academy in 1840. Directly opposite the Statue of loannis Kapodistria controls the traffic in his favourite town.

   Busts of various personalities of Corfu stand among the tall trees in the Pano Plateia (Upper Square), such as Dionysios Solomos, Nikolao Mantzaro and Nikoforo Theotoki. The Monument commemorating the Union of the Eptanisian Islands (lonian Islands) with the rest of Greece is also situated here. On its sides are carved the ancient emblems of the islands, including the «apidalos nafs» – emblem of the naval skills of the Corfiotes.

   During the summer evenings beautiful melodies float out from the Bandstand -or Palko, as it is called by the locals- accompanying the strollers in the square, bringing to mind other eras. One of the monuments that exemplifies the period of British protection is the Rotunda, built in 1816 in memory of the British High Commissioner, Thomas Maitland, and known to the locals as Sterna, because during that period there was a water tank under the Rotunda to cover the town’s water needs. All along the Spianada the »kantounia», the little alleyways and narrow streets lead out towards the historical centre of the town.

   In the Kato Plateia (Lower Square) we have Greece’s only cricket pitch, together with the Corfiot custom of drinking gingerbeer, which dates back to the British protection period. On the opposite side of the road the multi-coloured flowers of Anthona -otherwise called Bosketo- stand out behind the green-layered field. Liston’s buildings with their fabulous arches attract our attention. This impressive structure covers approximately two town-blocks and is the work of the Frenchman Lesseps, the same person who built the buildings in Rovoli Street in Paris.

   Under its voltas the cafeterias and restaurants have spread out their tables, filled with people throughout the day and night. The evenings are enchanting since the lit Venetian lamps of Liston bathes the night with their light. Liston is historically related with the social distinction between the nobles and the common people. When it was first built, only those listed in the Libro d’ Oro were allowed to pass by, and this is the name it is known by today. In contrast, the common folk were forced to pass by the parallel Kapodistriou Street.

   The opposite side of Spianada is dominated by the Old Fortress or Palaio Frourio, built on the twin peaks of the small peninsula. A 60 meter steel bridge -which replaced the old movable bridge- joins the Fortress to the town, and under it flows the Contra Fossa, an artificial canal with boats and caiques anchored in it, giving off multi- colored streaks on its serene blue waters.

   The port of Corfu initially developed around the Fortress and continued to be «inside the walls» until the Frankish raids in the 12th and 13th Centuries. When the Venetians permanently occupied Corfu in the 14th C., the town began to expand outside the walls, establishing the suburb of Xopoli outside the Fortress. Therefore those that lived inside the Fortress were called »Kastrinoi» (Castellians) and those outside »Exokastrinoi».

   At the northern part of the moat is Manfraki, the small harbour of the Fortress which could berth up to 10 galleys. The canal and the first bridge were built in the 16th C. when the fortification works were extended to Xopoli. During this period Spianada was opened and the south side of the Fortress was fortified. At the entrance of the Fortress we can see the Statue of Marshall Schulenburg, defender of Corfu against the Turks. In order to show their gratitude the Venetians erected the statue while the Marshall was still alive, even though there was a Venetian law that prohibited the erecting of a statue to honour a person that was still alive.

   The history of the Old Fortress began with the Byzantines. They initially fortified one of the two peaks of the acropolis, which was later called Castel Veccio or Castel da Mar (Castle of the Sea). The Venetians later strengthened the Fortress’ defence with strong bulwarks, intricate galleries and tunnels. They also fortified the second peak of the hill, known as Castel Nuovo or Castel da Terra (Castle of the Land). The Saborniano and Martinegro ramparts overlooked the Contra Fossa. Four gates were opened in the walls that encircled the town - the renowned Porta Reale and Porta Remunda, the gate of Ag. Nikolao at Mandraki and finally Spilia (Cave).

   During the same period the military installations at the Fortress were supplemented with new barracks, guard-houses and storage rooms for wheat. Of note were also the new Venetian buildings used for housing the military and civil authorities as well as residences for the nobles. The buildings that exist today in the interior of the castle date back to the British occupation period.

   Among these the large clock tower and the Church of Ag. Georgios stand out, a Neo-classical Doric- styled piece of architecture. The temple initially acted as an Anglican church but was transformed to an Orthodox one after the Eptanisian’s Union with Greece, and the iconostassis (icon screen) of the old Church of Ag. Spiridon, notable icons and relics were placed inside. Visiting the Old Fortress will offer us many sights that are worth seeing, mainly the unforgettable panoramic view and one of the most beautiful views of the town.

   In the Corfiot Sea the Islet of Vido stands out, fortified by the French. When the British occupied the town later, they destroyed the fortifications and its ramparts. The island today is an oasis for environmental equilibrium, during a period which is difficult to find. There are some tourist installations in Vido, together with an international camp-site. The Corfiot Centre for the Caring of Birds and Wild Animals was founded in 1933, aimed at protecting the island’s panida.

   The Royal Palace of Ag. Michail and Georgiou is another historical monument on Corfu, a jewel on the road to Mouragia. The Palace was built between 1819-1824 in a Georgian style that is unique in the Mediterranean. It was designed by the engineer Sir G. Whitmore and built of Malta stone It was used as a residence for the first British Lord High Commissioner, Sir T. Maitland, then as the seat of the Senate and later as Treasury of the Order of St. Michael and St. George, from which it got its name. The facade of the Palace is a Doric portico and two gates link it with the names of the saints.

   The rooms are decorated with depictions of the medallions of Ag. Michail and Georgio, with initials, fabulous marble fireplaces and crystal chandeliers. Until a few years ago the Palace housed the Museum of Asiatic Art, the only one of its kind in Greece.

   On the occasion of the Summit Meeting which took place on Corfu in June 1994, the Palace was renovated and the museum’s exhibits have been stored for the present, in order to be exhibited in the immediate future in possibly a different arrangement.

   The facade of the Palace holds the sculptured medallions with the emblems of the Eptanisian Islands (lonian Islands), created by the Corfiot sculpture Paul Prosalenti Pegasus with Vellerofonti for Lefkada, Odysseus’ Head for Ithaca, the mythical heroes of Kefalos and Zakynthos for Cephalonia and Zakynthos, the trident for Paxoi, and Aphrodite with a dolphin for Kythera. Corfu is symbolised by the «apidalos nafs» The British emblem with its lion has been placed above the medallions. When the British departed and took the statue with them, it was replaced by the bow of a marble Corfiot boat.

   In 1837 a bronze statue by Prosellenti of the British Lord High Commissioner Frederick Adam was placed in the gardens of the Palace, honouring the organiser of Corfu’s water-supply system. The right auxiliary wing of the Palace houses the Municipal Art Gallery of Corfu, containing notable works of 19th C. Corfiot artists. The collection also includes works by Greek artists from the 16th - 18th C. Among the notable artists whose works are exhibited here are M. Damaskinos, P. Prosalentis, I. Kalosgouros, Ch. Pachis, G. Samartzis and many more. An artistic kafeneio (coffee-shop) lies next to the art gallery and has a room housing a significant collection of engraved landscapes and maps which are of great artistic and historical value.

   Passing through the Gate of Ag. Georgio, we head towards the island’s harbour, following an enjoyable route. The Corfu Literaty Society is housed in a beautiful traditional house on Arsenio Street. The old «Nomarchia» (Prefecture) is situated on the same street, built where I. Kapodistria’s birthplace used to stand. Today various departments of the lonian University are housed here. Opposite the Prefecture is a road that descends to picturesque Phaliraki.

   The area that we’re in is called Mouragia and continuing on through the suburb of Spilia we reach the harbour. Throughout the length of Arseniou Street the kantounia lead to Kampielo, the oldest suburb in Corfu. Narrow, intricate backstreets which intertwine with each other end up at steps and arches, until unexpectedly a small square appears in front of us. Observe the characteristic knocker -or batidouro in the local dialect- at the entrance to the old mansions of the island, with the family crest carved in its centre.

   A map is useless in Kampielo where only the locals can orientate themselves. As you wander around the back alleys you will come across the pretty little squares of Ag. Eleni and the Blessed Virgin of Kremasti. Ag. Eleni Square took its name from the church that used to exist here. Today, in its place the Corfiot inhabitants planted a palm tree so as not to forget and stand on this holy spot. The Church of Taxiarchi stands out in the centre of Kampielo. An impressive marble angel guards the entrance from up high. Our walks through the narrow streets of the old town is accompanied by the aroma of Japanese mimosa, or as the locals call it, jacaranda.

   The oldest building of the town, dating back to 1497, is at Number 18 Filellinon Street. This house has a »portoni» with a stone »portosia» with carved vines. Its balcony is also worth noting, since they say it is the same as that of Juliet’s in Verona. Another interesting sight is the Gothic styled built-in double window on the first floor of a house at Number 3 Theodoras Street, near the Mitropolis (Cathedral).

   Returning to Arseniou we come across the Solomos Museum and the Byzantine Museum of Antivouniotissa, while a little further down we come to the steps of the Mitropolis (Cathedral). The suburb of Spilia lies by the old harbour, taking its name from the barracks that today houses the Agricultural Bank. The Gate of Spilia is found here, one of the two gates of the old wall that still exist today. The little road behind the gate leads us upwards to one of the entrances to the New Fortress and the Church of the Panagia (Blessed Virgin) of Tenedou. The arcade leading to the central part of the old town begins from here.

   The New Fortress above the old harbour, also known as the Fortress of Ag. Marko, is characterised by its imposing architectural lines. Construction began in 1576 and ended in 1645, about the same period when the town’s walls went up. In order to build the Fortress and to extend the town’s walls, it was deemed necessary to demolish many houses and old churches. Amongst others, one of the most beautiful gates of the town -Porta Reale (Royal Gate)- was demolished.

   The New Fortress consisted of two complexes of castles and was trengthened by two guardhouse- ramparts at a higher level then the original castles. To the left of the Fortress is the rampart of Sarandari and further left is a triple wall which connected the new castle with the central rampart of Ag. Athanasio. A wall that began from the New Fortress ended up at the beach on the one side and towards the town on the other, thus joining the two fortifications on Corfu. These town fortifications were grouped together to form a terrifying fortified complex, which because it was so well-known for its perfection it detracted would- be raiders. It was also known for its architecture, which marked it as one of the most significant fortressian works of art.

   Unassailable ramparts and mines protected the Fortress. At the end of the 17th C. the French initially and then the British at a later stage supplemented the fortifications and the buildings in the Fortress. Before Union of the Eptanisian Islands with Greece, the great powers of that period demanded that the fortification works of the New Fortress be destroyed. Today however two beautiful gates – almost completely intact- have been saved, with the Venetian Emblem on them – the winged lion of St. Marco.

   From the laiki agora we head towards the commercial centre of the town. The main commercial roads of the historical centre are Evg. Voulgareos and Nikiforou Theotaki Streets, with impressive shops and luxurious jewellery stores. Near the Church of Ag. Vasileio -at Number 41 on the small street of Them. Katardou- we can see one of the oldest Venetian houses of the town, with its large balconies.

   Nikiforou Theotoki Street continues until the Gate of Spilia and is the shortest route from the centre to the harbour. This street, with its endless rows of voltas supported on stone columns and the tall buildings, gives one of the most characteristic tones of the old town. Here is where you can see the Church of Ag. Spiridon, the patron saint of Corfu, with the Square of Iroon Kypriakou Agona in front, or Plakada tou Agiou, as it is known by the locals.

   The church has two entrances, one facing the square and the other towards Ag. Spiridon Street. When the church celebrates mass, especially during one of the major holidays, the sounds of the organ travel throughout the old town. Inside is the entrance to the house of the Voulgari family, but which now leads to the »ginekoniti» or women’s section. At the junction of Philharmoniki and N.Theotoki Streets you can see a steel koukounara (pine cone) or pinia hanging there. There are two more pine cones nearby, one built- in into a house and the other on the tiles of the road, and thus the neighborhood was named Pinia.

   In Plakada you can also see the Church of the Panagia of Xenon (Church of the Blessed Virgin of Foreigners) and immediately opposite the Church of Ag. loanni. The lonian & Popular Bank’s Museum of Bank Notes is also found in this square. Small streets extend perpendicularly and radially from all the central streets, all charming and worth strolling along. Philharmoniki Street got its name from the «Mantzaros» Philharmonic Society, which makes its presence known every afternoon as the musical notes of the musicians float out into the surrounding roads during their lessons and practice sessions. The street is paved with black stones that were creations of lava brought to the island by the Italians. The stone steps of Philharmoniki Street lead us back to the labyrinth of Kampielo. Leaving behind us the harbour we soon reach the coastal suburbs of Mantouki and Kefalomantouko, which are amongst the most exclusive suburbs on Corfu.

   The Monastery of Platitera, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, is found in Mantouki. The monastery has a large collection of notable Venetian-styled icons painted by the hagiographers Emm. Tzane, Th. Poulaki, G. Klotza and N. Kantouni. The wood-carved iconostassis is decorated with icons by N. Koutouzi. Inside the esonarthex are the graves of the holy monks Nikodimou and Nektariou and the graves of loanni Kapodistria, the Corfiot historian Andrea Moustoxidi and the hero Fotou Tzavella.

   From Mantouki we continue on the national road of Palaiokastritsa, towards the famous «straight», as this section is called by the locals, where all the tavernas, restaurants, bars and the majority of the night clubs are concentrated.

   Leaving the old town and continuing towards Saroko (San Rocco), Evg. Voulgareos Street changes its name to Georgiou Theotoki Street. Saroko or Georgiou Theotoki Square is the commercial centre of the new section of the town, with its shops, banks and the urban bus terminal. Just before the square, Leof. Alexandras leads us to Garitsa Bay. At Number 6 on Alexandras Avenue is the Historical Archives of Corfu, one of the oldest in Greece and housed in the old orphanage of the island.

   Following the signs we reach the Archeological Museum, which houses notable Corfiot exhibits. A significant monument was discovered towards the end of the wide avenue, that of the Tomb of Menekrates – a circular structure made of carved stones. On the upper part of the grave is an inscription dating back to 600 BC, which informs us that Menekrates was the Corfiot Consul in the town of lanthi, today known as Galaxidi. He died in a sea accident and the Municipality of Corfu -according to the inscription- erected this cenotaph in his honour. You can see exhibited in the Archeological Museum the marble lion that was found near here.

   An obelisk to Douglas, the British High Commissioner, lies at the spot where Alexandras Avenue meets the coastal road to Garitsa. We now reach Dimokratias Avenue, the road that begins at the Spianada and ends at Kanoni, following the curves of Garitsa Bay. The wide pavement above the sea is ideal for walking, especially in the afternoon when the lonian light outlines the details of the Old. Fortress and the shadows play on the leaves of the trees in the Spianada.

   Kapodistriou Street passes through the middle part of the square, from where some of the many kantounia (narrow streets and alleys) spread out. Moustoxidi Street or Plati Kantouni was one of the most important streets in the Venetian town. Where it ends we can see the lonian Parliament, built in 1852. This historical building is closely connected with the Union of the Eptanisian Islands with the remainder of Greece. It was utilised as the Chamber for the Deputies for the 11th, 12th and the final 13th Parliament of the Eptanisian State, which voted for Union with Greece on September 23rd 1863. After Union the Greek State -in exchange for the Church of Ag. Georgio in the Old Fortress- gave the Parliament building to be used as a Protestant Church. The lonian Parliament has recently been restored and its rooms are now used for lectures. At the end of lonios Voulis Street (lonian Parliament Street) lies Dimarchio Square (Town Hall Square) with the impressive Dimarchio (Town Hall), the Catholic Cathedral (Mitropoli) and the building housing the Bank of Greece, all with a history going back many centuries.

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