The northeastern part of Corfu differs from the rest of the island in that its main characteristic is the tall peaks that rise above the beaches. Here the green vegetation tries to reach the sea, which is often separated only by a sandy strip. The region’s natural beauty justifies the large tourist development which has taken place over the past several decades. However, if you’re in the mood to discover the real Corfu, you should follow the snake-like road to Pantokrator, with its breathtaking view and its beautiful mountainous villages. Driving out of the town of Corfu, we leave behind us Mantouki and “Eftheia” and follow the Palaiokastritsa National Road.

     Detouring slightly towards the village of Evropouloi, we can visit Kapodistria’s Museum. In reality this is the countryhouse of the Kapodistria family, built on the top of a tree-filled hill. Among the museum’s exhibits we can see the personal effects of the first governor of liberated Greece, portraits, medals and seals with the family crest. The furniture in these rooms are all originals and we are therefore able to observe how the countryhouses of the Corfiot aristocracy of that period were furnished and arranged. The museum is open only on certain days and only for a few hours, so telephone the museum before you intend to visit it (Tel: 32440).

     We pass through Kontokali just before entering Gouvia Bay, an area that pulsates with life every summer. Tavernas and restaurants on the beach, bars for the tourist’s nightly entertainment and the marina at Gouvia all attract thousands of visitors. This increase in tourism is relieved somewhat by the many beaches, which in reality extend throughout the length of the eastern part of Corfu, with only a few small breaks of greenery. At Gouvia you can see the ruins of a Venetian way- station. This was an impressive structure where ships of the Venetian Navy were repaired and provisioned. What remains of this Venetian building today is just a series of large arches. We can discern two small islets opposite Gouvia and Kontokli - Vido towards the town and Lazaretto, the old lazaretto or quarantine place.

     At the Cape of Kommeno we come across pretty picture – framed photographs every summer. A small picturesque church has been built on the narrow strip of land that extends into the sea. At Kommeno you can have a relatively quiet holiday, but with the nightlife just next door. Luxury hotel complexes are open almost throughout the year, hosting just some of the many thousands of Corfu lovers. Dafnilas and Dasia are almost a continuation of Gouvia and are just another of the island’s sea- side resorts. The scenery here is identical to that which we passed by: dense vegetation, trees that reach almost to the sea, crystal clear blue waters and all the necessary tourist comforts. Other than the large sandy beaches of Dasia found on the shores of the bay, you can “discover” many smaller coves, more quieter but just as idyllic. There is also a Club Mediteranne in this beautiful corner of Corfu and its characteristic thatched huts adds an exotic touch to this region.

     Continuing on the coastal road we meet Kato Korakiana. Corfu’s rich cultural heritage has an ardent supporter here - a branch of the National Art Gallery. Two recently renovated traditional stone buildings -the Castelo and the Castelino- house exhibitions and cultural artifacts. This branch of the National Gallery is open throughout the year with collections from the National Gallery as well as frequent exhibitions of Eptanisian art.

     Ano Korakiana is a quaint, traditional village with 37 churches and a heritage in choral music. This heritage began in 1623 with the Mantolinata by Papa as well as by Dionysis Sgourou, artist and composer. Wander around the village and see the more notable churches: the Churches of Ag. lakovos, Profiti llia, Ag. Georgios with its unique acoustics and small paintings by Samartzi and Pachi, and Ag. Athanasios with frescos from the 15th C. On the slopes of the hill of Korakio we can see the villa of Count lakovo Polila, a descendant of a notable Corfiot family.

     We descend down again to the coast. Within shouting distance we enter the community of Ipsos, with its large narrow beach covered with fine pebbles. This beach is also known as Chriso Mili (Golden Mile), which is very representative. Sea sport instructors, diving, bars and restaurants, hotels and camp- sites are spread out throughout the beach, satisfying every taste. The large mountain range of Pantokrator covers the beaches with its shadow, reminding us that the real Corfu still awaits us to discover it. Stopping off at Pyrgi, you can enjoy the beautiful view of the island’s crowded beaches. In the village of Ag. Markos, other than the traditional “kafenia” (coffee-shops) and the panoramic view of the sea, mainland Greece directly opposite and the beaches of Albania, you can also visit two notable churches. The first is Ag. Merkourios with its frescos dating back to 1075, considered to be one of the most significant Byzantine monuments on Corfu. The second church is Pantokrator, where you can admire the well-preserved murals dated 1576.

     Ascending Pantokrator can be a very pleasing experience and which can be combined with a meal or a walk, according to your inclination. Smail plateaus with communities and villages are being developed on its slopes. The more we climb the more breathtaking the view becomes. The clear mountainous- scenery is an enjoyable change from our excursions along the coast. We meet Spartila on the lowest peak of the mountain (400 m), a village with cubical stone houses and balconies that hang out above the abyss. Higher up the houses of Petalias and Strinila scale up the mountain. The picturesque square and the traditional tavernas are reminiscent of villages in northern Greece.

     Continuing on the road we can cross a piece of northeastern Corfu and pass by Episkepsi. Still untouched by tourism, this village gives us once again a picture of the real life on the island. Leaving behind us these Mediterranean villages we reach the coastal village of Acharavi (see route No 3.).

     We carry on our journey with the purpose of ascending to the top of Pantokrator. The road becomes more difficult after Strinila as the tarred road is replaced by a dirt one. On both sides of the road we can see signs of cultivation of the scarce land by the stubborn Corfiotes who don’t hesitate to try and dominate Nature. The local economy however is based mostly on stock-farming, which in previous years was more developed. Today things have changed since tourism is of course a more profitable field. Reaching the peak of Pantokrator (906 m) we discover the homonymous Monastery of Ipsilou (High) Pantokrator with its many cells and a stone church dedicated to Pantokrator. The murals of the monastery are works of art from the 14th and 15th Centuries, as are many of its icons. The current church was built in 1689 on the same site as that of a smaller church dating back to 1347, which was destroyed in the beginning of the 16th C. The church celebrates on the day of Sotiros on August 6th and the adoration to the “Ypsilone”, as the locals call the monastery, lasts six days. When the atmosphere is clear, the view from the peak is unparalleled. The eye covers the whole island of Corfu and the mainland and even reaches neighbouring Albania.

     Leaving the mountain we descend again to the coast. Dirt roads and paths lead us to Barbati, a community with an impressive coastline. Passing by the small beach at Glifas we enter the tourist area of Nisaki. The road is uphill and the view charms the viewer as the sea and the white beaches stand out amongst the dense trees. Four scenic communities, built amphitheatrically on the hills, make up Nisaki: Kentroma, Kavalarena, Loustri and Gimari. Continuing on, the beauty of the scenery prepares us for the surprises that our travels in Corfu gives us. Two twin bays, Kouloura and Kalami await us around the next bend, The road descends and branches into two directions. To our right we see enchanting Kalami. A strip of land extends into the dark blue waters while the cypress and pines trees are caressed by the waves. These scenes bewitched the famous British writer Lawrence Darrell, who described pre-war Corfu in his book “Prosperous Cell”.

     The name Kouloura is derived from the circular pier in the neighbouring fishing port. Cafeterias and tavernas place their chairs on the small pier, offering a view of the green-filled Nature and the crystal clear waters of the sea. A fortified residence dating back to the Venetian Era is being restored near Kouloura. The neighbouring beach at Ag. Stefanos, carefully hidden amongst the pine trees, is the region of Corfu closest to Albania. A narrow channel approximately 2 nautical miles wide separates us from the beaches of this neighbouring country. Small white beaches have formed around here and wait for us to discover them. As we head towards Kassiopi – our final destination- we observe the houses and yards of the small villages in the region situated behind the olive and fruit-bearing trees, far away from the tourism and development seen in the coastal regions of Corfu.

     The now small market town of Kassiopis had been a thriving town and significant harbour on Corfu during the Roman period. Of interest are the theatre and the Temple of Zeus (Kassius Dias). Ancient Kassiopis had been visited by notable persons of that period, including Kikeronas the orator and Ptolemeos the Egyptian. Emperor Nero also visited the island, and to show how much he was in accord with the spirit of ancient Greece, he played the harp and danced together with the dance- troupe in front of the Temple of Zeus.

     The Temple of Zeus (Kassios Dias) was one of the most well- known in antiquity, as was the Church of the Slessed Virgin of Kassopitras, which was built at a later period on the remains of an ancient temple. The church was initially destroyed in 1537 by the Turks but was rebuilt by the Venetians around 1590. Of interest is the icon of the Slessed Virgin together with the Holy Infant, a work of art by Poulaki dating back to 1670. Abandoned to the whims of Nature on the top of the hill lies the ruins of Kassiopis Castle. This castle was built in the 14th C. by the Angevin conquerors of Corfu. When the Venetians took over the island, the inhabitants of Kassiopis resisted by barricading themselves in their castle. The Venetians finally overran the castle and in revenge razed it almost to the ground. Kassiopis therefore became the easy prey of the Turks, who had besieged Corfu for many years. Not being able to resist the Turk’s rage, the inhabitants took refuge in other parts of the island and Kassiopis was left to decay.

     This charming little harbour is now teeming with life. Other than the visitors who stay here, hundreds of day-trippers arrive in little boats from all over the island, thus giving the region more vitality. Small roads and paths start from both sides of the harbour, leading to some of the many nearby beaches. Kassiopis is the perfect starting point for the northern part of the island, thanks both to the modern road that leads to the western beaches and to the frequent connections with the town of Corfu.