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4th Route:
Ai Gordi - Peleka - Glyfada - Ermones - Liapades - Palaiokastritsa - Lakones
- Angelokastro
Perched on the top of a hill, the houses of Peleka nonchalantly have a bird’s eye view of the western beaches of Corfu. Bustling and impressive, the beaches of Ai Gordi, Glyfada, Mirtiotissa and Ermones are among the most popular on the island. The young crowds and the families, Greek and foreign, all have fun at the organized beaches, enjoying the sea and the water-sports or just the charm of the spectacular landscape. From the town of Corfu we follow the road southwards. A few kilometers further down we meet the village of Kinopiastes with its characteristic traditional architecture, even though it is more well-known for its tavernas. Further south is the road to Ag. Deka, a village built on the mountain of the same name. From its peak you can enjoy the panoramic view of the surrounding area. The scenic village of Ano Garona has a tradition for sculpture and carved stone. Notable examples of this craftsmanship is the belfry of Ag. Nikolao, carved out of local rock by the talented craftsmen of the village, and the statue of the dead self-taught stone mason, a work of art of exceptional detail by Stefano Kardami. Other than the small exquisite sculptured works of art, you can also visit the carpet factory in the village. The beach at Ai Gordi captivates you when seen from above. The beach’s trademark is Ortholithi – a high rock to the left of the beach, together with the wonderful sandy beach. The natural beauty of the region acts as a magnet for tourists. In between the vineyards and the tall olive trees you can see the hotel complexes and the smaller units, all blending together with the landscape. Along the length of the beach tavernas and outdoor bars offer the necessary shade and rest before our next outing to the other beautiful beaches in western Corfu. It is worth stopping off at the village of Sinarades in Middle Corfu -as the greater region is called- in order to visit the very interesting Historical Folklore Museum, founded in August 1982 through the initiative of the Corfiot educator, N. Paktiti. Since 1985 the museum is now housed in a traditional double-storey house. Included in the exhibits are a large number of folkloric material taken from the central Corfu countryside. The house was renovated and is exactly the same as those village houses built between 1860 -1960. On top of the entrance we can see the ”bonzo” – a small covered veranda characteristic of traditional Corfiot architecture. It is worth noting the collection of men’s and women’s traditional clothes, ecclesiastical items, home handicraft and agricultural tools, as well as household utensils and the “children’s corner” with toys and collections of Punch and Judy puppets. Another exhibit that stands out is the “papirella” – a small primitive boat built out of a specific Corfiot bulrush. On the road to Peleka we come across the area of Aerostato, a natural balcony that offers a spectacular view. Peleka, with its traditional style, its picturesque little coffee-shops and its pretty houses, is one of the most popular villages on Corfu. One of its advantages is the combination of a pleasing environment, a spectacular view and easy access to the neighbouring beaches. You can enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets on Corfu from the peak of Peleka Mountain. This same peak was chosen by Kaiser Wilhelm to erect his “throne” on a natural ledge. Following the signposts we climb a few more meters to Kaiser’s spot. From here the view is breathtaking: central Corfu, Ropa’s Valley, the town of Corfu and a large part of the lonian Sea. Descending the road from Peleka we reach the pretty beach of Kontogialou, which is not crowded and there are only a couple of tavernas for the visitors. Glyfada, with its fine sand and clear waters, is probably the most famous beach on Corfu. Other than the... usual (for these beaches) tavernas, rooms and hotels, at Glyfada you will find the most popular beach bar on Corfu. This is where the island’s youth meet, a place that has the air of a continuous party. Whoever desires more quieter moments continues on -by foot or by motorcycle- until Mirtiotissa, probably the best beach on the island, with its pine trees and banana trees and of course its wonderful sandy beach, which characterises the western beaches of Corfu. Even though the tavernas and bars that have opened here recently have displaced the nudists -Mirtiotissa was their favourite beach- the region has not yet lost its serene and idyllic character. Visit the Monastery of the Blessed Virgin of Mirtiotissa situated above the beach. The monastery took its name from the spot where the icon of the Blessed Virgin was discovered amongst the “mirtia” or myrtle. Accorrling to local tradition, the monastery was founded in the 14th C, by a certain Turkish monk who became a Christian. Rejoining the main road again, we pass through the village of Vatos and end up at Ermones, the outlet for Ropa’s Valley to the sea. Impressive rocks, crystal clear waters and small pebbles mixed with sand make up this pretty picture. When you talk to the older Corfiotes you will hear about many legends and folklores, since folkloric tradition here is very rich. Many of them date back to antiquity and relate to Odysseus’ passage past the island. As ancient story-tellers, the locals -together with certain scientists - maintain that the meeting between Odysseus and Nausicaa took place here. The banks of the stream that flows between the craggy rocks could easily have been the scene where Nausicaa and her maidens were washing their clothes and while waiting for them to dry, Odysseus appeared before them. We will probably never know the truth but it is fascinating to bathe here and to think that somewhere here one of Odysseus’ more beautiful romances took place! You now have two choices since this route divides into two. The one choice is to return back to the town along the same road we originally came on. The second is to rejoin the main road and to continue on to Palaiokastritsa, crossing through the Valley of Ropa, where once upon a time the Corfiot aristocracy had their estates. Palaiokastritsa and imposing Angelokastro, the spectacular view from the Lakones, the Liapades hidden under the tall olive tress and the journey through the green-filled valley probably make this trip of ours one of the most pleasant on Corfu. One of the first villages that we meet will be Liapades, so far untouched by tourism and its ensuing changes. You can swim at some of the wonderful beaches situated in the bay beneath the village, that have only a few visitors. The six coves that make up Palaiokastritsa, with its fine sandy beaches and dense olive trees, attract thousands of tourists throughout the year. The natural beauty is still impressive, even though large hotel complexes have arisen and tourism has increased tremendously over the past several decades. On the heights of Palaiokastritsa you can see the Monastery of Zodocho Pigis for monks only. The monastery was built in 1225 but the buildings that have been preserved were erected at a later period (18th-19th C.). A charming courtyard with arches and a small museum with Byzantine and Post-Byzantine icons are open for the visitor. Other than the ecclesiastical section of the museum, you may also see a collection of potsherds and the skeleton of a whale that was washed up by the sea some years ago. Two little islets stand out in the blue sea just opposite the monastery: Skeloudi and Kolovri, also known as Petrokaravo (stone ship). Legand identifies it with a certain Algerian ship that came to loot the monastery. The then abbot walked out into the courtyard of the church and prayed for the ship to be turned into stone. His faith in God made his prayer come true. Others identify this rock with the ship that carried Odysseus from the island of the Phaeacians to Ithaca, and when it returned it was petrified by the wrath of Poseidon. Again in accordance with folklore, the mythical palace of Alcinous is situated in the region around Palaiokastritsa. The bluish waters of Palaiokastritsa, refreshingly cool in the hot summer day, invites us in for a swim. As the hours pass, the adjacent restaurants slowly fill with customers who come to try the fresh fish and the lobsters – the regions’s “speciality”. And later in the evening, the music from the bars invites both young and old to show us their dancing skills in a carefree and relaxing atmosphere. The view of Palaiokastritsa is spectacular from the village of Lakones. A natural plateau has formed here in the shape of a balcony, known as Bella Vista (Pretty View). Truly at this spot the lace-like coast, the deep blue waters and the shear rocks of the capes form an impressive picture, something that remains impressed in the minds of every visitor to Corfu. About 3 kilometers further up the road we reach the village of Krini, from where you can ascent to Angelokastro, perched on the peak of a precipitous rock. The road ends a little before the peak so we continue walking up along the narrow pathway. Every step we take allows our gaze to encompass another piece of land which matches perfectly with the sea that encircles it while the horizon seems to unite its blueness with the blue contrasts of the sea. Built in the 13th C. by Michail Angelo, the first Father Superior of the Epirus Seigneurie, Angelokastro (Castel Sant’ Angelo) stands impregnable 330 m above the coves of Palaiokastritsa . The castle’s fortifications were complemented and strengthened by the Angivens and the Venetians. Certain historians maintain that irrespective of the construction, the fortress’ name may possibly be connected to the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel which was in the fortress in the exact site where the more recent church (1784) is now situated. A second church, Ag. Kyriakis, with 18th C. frescos, is built in a small cavern inside the rock and has as its altar an old Christian turret. The same applies to the Church of Archangelon. Until the 18th C. Angelokastro was for the Venetians the most significant fortress on the island, after the Fortresses in the town, and which could protect 4,000 persons from the region of Giro. From the top of Angelokastro there is optical contact with the Fortresses in the town, a fact that verifies how the two fortresses could communicate with each other in the event of raiders appearing on the horizon. From somewhere here we take the road back to the town of Corfu. We can either follow the road back the way that we came or else pass through the village of Skripero so that we have another opportunity to admire the view of Corfu from Troumpeta Pass. This is where we conclude our travels around Corfu. With the routes that we proposed we wanted to give you some guidelines so that you may get to know this beautiful island. However it is certain that everyone who will follow his instincts as well as his preferences will discover the most beautiful spots of Corfiot land – the perfect scene for unforgetable holidays. |

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